The Exumas are made up of 365 cays surrounded by a menagerie of sapphire and turquoise waters in the Bahamas. The small sandy low islands are called cays (pronounced keys) because they formed on coral reefs instead of by volcanic activity. If you’re craving secluded beaches or want to vacation like an A-lister, the Exumas are the place to go. Celebrities ranging from Johnny Depp to Tyler Perry have homes here. Whether you want to escape on a romantic winter getaway or take the kids to paradise on spring break, here are some of the best things to see and do in the Exumas.
Stay on Staniel Cay
Staniel Cay makes an excellent vacation homebase. The easiest way to get there is on a daily flight from Fort Lauderdale or Nassau. Accommodations range from luxurious bungalows to cozy cottages. When staying there, my friend and I opted to rent a 2-bedroom vacation home. For a boutique hotel experience, stay at Embrace Resort, Fowl Cay Resort, or Staniel Cay Yacht Club. To get around the cay you need to rent a golf cart or bikes. We went for the golf cart and had a great time tooling around as we explored the cay. Two things on my must do list while on Staniel Cay are relaxing in the picturesque setting of Pirate Trap Cove and dining at The Deck at Staniel Cay Yacht Club.Pairing a cold Kalik beer or rum punch with fish tacos was my go-to for more than one or two dining experiences during my stay.
Snorkel in a Movie Set
When you snorkel in Thunderball Grotto, you’re snorkeling in a movie set. If you’re a 007 fan, James Bond movies Thunderball (1965) and Never Say Never Again (1983) were filmed here. While you might see bikini-clad bombshells and perhaps a martini, you won’t encounter any M16 secret weapons in this submerged cave teeming with vividly colored coral reefs and fish. In addition to the Bond movies, Splash (1984) with Daryl Hannah and Into the Blue (2005) with Jessica Alba filmed at Thunderball Grotto.
The hollowed-out island is just a 2-minute ride from Staniel Cay. At low tide, we hired one of the guys with a small motorboat in the Staniel Cay Marina to take us over. If its high tide, Thunderball Grotto is only accessible to divers as the small entrance is hidden, adding to the mystique to the grotto. I’ll admit I was a little apprehensive as I took a big breath then swam under the rocky overhang towards the light inside the grotto. Once inside it’s magical to see angel fish, sergeant majors and other vividly colored fish swimming around the rocky chamber illuminated by sunlight streaming in from a hole in the top. I even spotted a barracuda then witnessed a frenzy of colored fish swarm to get some green peas a guy dropped into the water. As magical as Thunderball Grotto is, make sure you keep track of time, so you get out before the tide comes in.
Excursion to Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park
If you like the idea of being in a kaleidoscope of brightly colored fish and reefs, go on an excursion to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The marine reserve covers 112,640 acres and is considered one of the best scuba diving and snorkeling spots in the Bahamas. Created in 1958, it was the first land and sea park in the world. When you need a break from its magnificent underwater world, you can relax on one of the pristine beaches.
The biodiversity in the coral reefs, seagrasses and mangroves is incredible. In addition to a plethora of colorful fish, you might be able to spot some turtles. As you bask in the beauty of a secluded beach or trek on a trail, keep an eye out for iguanas and birds. It’s only accessible by boat so you can book an excursion through a tour operator or rent a boat for a day like we did from L&C Island Rentals. If you go on your own, be aware of the park’s rules and mooring, camping and other fees.
Swimming Pigs
Big Major Cay is the only cay in the world that’s home to swimming pigs. How the pigs ended up on the uninhabited cay, no one knows for sure.One legend is they were left by sailors who intended to return. Another legend is the pigs swam over to the cay from a nearby shipwreck. It’s only about a 10–15-minute boat ride from Staniel Cay.
As we headed over to Pig Beach, I giggled at the thought of swimming pigs and then laughed even harder when I saw some of the 20 pigs and piglets on the beach and in the turquoise water. We anchored a little off the beach and swam in where the pigs delighted in treats of bread and vegetables some people were feeding them. The spotted ones and white piglets got my vote for cutest. I watched pigs trot along the sand in this picturesque cove, then I couldn’t stop laughing watching some of the porcine swimmers dogpaddle in the water. These cute porkers are living the easy life and enjoy celebrity status with visitors.Go early in the day if you want to swim with the pigs without crowds in this very popular spot in the Exumas.
Swim with Nurse Sharks
While I was quite content enjoying the shiver of sharks and some stingrays daily in the Staniel Cay Marina, if you want to swim with some docile nurse sharks, the most well-known spot to do that is Compass Cay. If you need a liquid courage, there’s a makeshift bar with signs covering just about every inch of its walls and pillars. If you’re not brave enough to swim with the sharks, you can touch their backs from the dock during high tide. While you’re there take a dip in Rachel’s Bubble Bath. On the north end of the cay is a lovely lagoon where water breaks over a notch in the rocks and foams up on the water’s surface making the lagoon a natural bubble bath.
End your adventurous vacation days taking in the sunsets. They are just as spectacular as the exquisite underwater world, blissful unspoiled beaches and idyllic tropical islands of the Exumas. Slow down some and enjoy island life. As they say on Staniel Cay, “It’s da ting to do.”
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