Utah’s Mighty Five of Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks is a bucket list road trip. Veer slightly off from the popular spots and you’ll quickly find solitude and slices of small-town Americana making this adventure far richer than a just a checklist of the 63 national parks. From the sandstone spectacles in Arches to Zion’s towering cliffs, the scenic route is filled with jaw-dropping views. As a frequent visitor to southern Utah to hike and recharge, I’m sharing some of my favorite finds, including a few petroglyphs and pies (yes, pies!), along the way.
Arches and Canyonlands: Majestic Moab
You could take a weekend trip to Moab or stay a whole week and just scratch the surface of this outdoor playground. Give yourself at least one day in Arches and one in Canyonlands.
Delicate Arch is an iconic hike in Arches. Be at the trailhead pre-dawn to beat the heat and crowds. Don’t underestimate this 3-mile hike, as it is harder than it looks. Most only stop to see Sand Dune Arch but do an easy 3-mile loop to also see Broken Arch and Tapestry Arch. Stick around for sunset at the Windows where you should wander around Turret Arch then settle in at either the North or South Window or from Double Arch to watch the red rock glow rosy gold. For a moderately challenging hike, do Double O Arch. The beginning of the trail is typically busy, but once you get past Landscape Arch (longest arch in North America), you can easily find solitude in the Devils Garden area of Arches. On this hike you not only get to see narrow rock walls called “fins,” you get to scramble up one for a heart pumping experience to soak in the view from its narrow ledge with steep drop-offs. My favorite trail in Arches requires getting a permit in advance. Fiery Furnace has primitive trail markers in a find your own adventure hike. There are hidden arches, narrow passageways and slick rocks to scramble on as you navigate through this remote area of the park. For those wanting guidance through Arches and Canyonlands, some tour options are on offer, including a single day tour as well as a 3-day tour of the region.
In Canyonlands, you can cover a lot of ground during a half or full day exploring the Island in the Sky mesa. Make sure to factor in drive time as it's about 40 minutes from Moab. If you’re an early bird, catch sunrise at Mesa Arch. If up for a challenging hike, it’s a short but steep 0.6 mile climb for a magnificent view of Upheaval Dome, one of Canyonlands’ most unique geological features. If you like ancient history, take the western fork on Aztec Butte to see two ancestral Puebloan structures. Grand View Point is particularly stunning during golden hour as you watch the sunset from the mesa’s edge. Make sure to add time at Dead Horse Point State Park for some of the most spectacular scenic vistas of the Colorado River 2,000 feet below.
It's worth driving 75 miles south of Moab to visit Canyonlands’ Needles District. Stop to see hundreds of petroglyphs on Newspaper Rock during the drive along the Indian Creek Corridor Scenic Byway in Bears Ears National Monument on the way. For a fun short hike, Cave Spring Trail (0.6 miles) takes you to a historic cowboy camp and prehistoric pictographs. Climb two ladders for wonderful panoramic views. At the end of the scenic drive is a wonderful area to soak in canyon views. My friend Lisa and I left Needles wishing we had more than a day to explore and enjoy this lesser visited district of Canyonlands.
From glamping yurts to modern motels, there’s an array of accommodations in Moab. The AAA Three Diamond-designated Gonzo Inn and Moab Springs Ranch are two of my picks. Grab a breakfast burrito at Love Muffin before adventuring. For a sit-down breakfast or lunch, Moab Garage Co. hits the spot. Cactus Jacks, The Spoke on Center and Fiesta Mexicana are excellent options for dinner to chow down on comfort food.
Capitol Reef: Arches, Canyons and Apple Pie
Of Utah’s Mighty Five, Capitol Reef is my favorite. Of the 48 and counting national parks I’ve been to; this is one I’m drawn back to repeatedly. Capitol Reef’s landscape is surreal because of the Waterpocket Fold, a geologic buckle in the earth’s surface nearly 100 miles in size. When I speak on national parks, I often get a chuckle when I say you must try the pies at Capitol Reef. Near the visitor center and historic orchards, go early to the Gifford Homestead to snag a monster cinnamon roll or reward yourself after a hike with a homemade pie. The strawberry rhubarb pie is to die for. You won’t regret buying several mini pies for later.
Cohab Canyon Trail is near Gifford Homestead. After its steep start, the trail has stellar views of the Fremont River Valley, cool narrow canyons and brightly colored rock formations. Hike it as an out-and-back or connect to other trails for a longer hike. Hickman Bridge is a must, but hike early or close to sunset to enjoy the 133-foot natural bridge without crowds. My favorite hike is to Cassidy Arch, named after Butch Cassidy. You’ll walk by towering canyon walls then up a steep trail with stairway to heaven moments before traversing across slick rock to see the arch. If you’re not afraid of heights, you can walk out on it.
I also love taking the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive in the late afternoon. It’s paved for 7.9 miles before a couple of miles on the dirt spur road into Grand Wash and Capitol Gorge. From here you can do a flat hike to the see the Pioneer Register of names from the 1800s and early 1900s etched into the canyon walls. Go a little further and do the short but steep hike up the “water tanks,” or small pools in the rocks filled with rainwater.
Stay a night or two in Torrey. Capitol Reef’s gateway town mixes western charm with starry skies thanks to its dark sky designation. Capitol Reef Resort, Red River Ranch and Skyridge Inn offer unique stays. Grab a latte at Dark Sky Coffee, breakfast or lunch at Wild Rabbit Café and go for hearty meal at Broken Spur Steakhouse. Don’t miss the cool sweet flavors at Color Ridge Farm and Creamery.
Scenic Byway 12: An All-American Road
Known as “A Journey Through Time,” the 124-mile highway takes you through high-alpine forests and geological wonderment as you drive between Torrey and Panguitch. Connecting Capitol Reef and Bryce, Scenic Byway 12 is one of the most spectacular drives in the country. Stop for lunch in the tiny town of Boulder. Hell’s Backbone Grill is a James Beard-nominated stop worth every forkful. Take an hour to explore the Anasazi State Park Museum, protecting a village occupied from AD 1050 to 1200.
If you’re staying a couple of nights in Capitol Reef area, Burr Trail Scenic Byway is one of the most white-knuckled yet jaw dropping driving experiences I’ve ever done. The 67-mile drive connects Bullfrog and Boulder through the rugged Waterpocket Fold.
There are two trails to see Calf Creek Falls. The easiest is Upper Calf Creek Falls following a cairned slickrock route for a two-mile roundtrip hike. Lower Calf Creek Falls is a 6-mile roundtrip mostly sandy trek to get an up-close view of the 126-foot waterfall. Do it early morning or late afternoon to ditch the crowds. Kiva Koffeehouse is a unique coffee experience with a view in between Boulder and Escalante.
Grand Staircase: Escalante Escapades
Give yourself a night or two in Escalante to explore Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The only place you’ll see a crowd here is at Escalante Outfitters for pizza and beer. Drive the dirt road to Devils Gardens to wander around hoodoos and natural arches in a spot that feels like your own private playground of stone. Just west of Escalante, Petrified Forest State Park has a short, rewarding hike of sweeping views dotted with colorful fossilized wood. Farther west, Kodachrome Basin State Park has over 60 towering sedimentary spires. Angle’s Palace and Panorama Trails are two wonderful hikes to traverse through rock formations. Don’t miss taking a short detour to Grosvenor Arch. One of the most unique arches in Grand Staircase-Escalante, it’s actually two arches towering 150 feet above the ground. If you have a high clearance vehicle, drive deeper into the rugged beauty of Cottonwood Canyon.
Bryce Canyon: Hoodoos and High Points
Home to the world’s largest collection of hoodoos, the rock spire filled landscape of Bryce Canyon National Park is unlike anywhere else on earth. Since all the viewpoints are on the right-hand side of the park’s main road, do the 40-minute drive to Rainbow Point and hike the easy 1-mile Bristlecone Loop to wander through some of the oldest living things on earth. Driving back, soak in the otherworldly scenery at the many viewpoints.
Peekaboo Loop combining Navajo and Peekaboo Trails is my favorite hike in Bryce. From Sunset Point, you quickly lose the crowd noise as you descend the Two Bridges side of Navajo Trail into the land of hoodoos and spires. Once on the canyon floor, take Peekaboo Trail as the quieter alternative to the popular Queen’s Garden Trail. Weaving up the switchbacks of Wall Street will give you a heart-pounding finish. Doing this hike late afternoon will reward you with golden hour glow as you return to Sunset Point.
Between Bryce and Zion: Red Rock Wonderment
Red Canyon near Panguitch and Cedar Breaks National Monument are worthy stops between Bryce and Zion. Hike Birdseye Trail to admire hoodoos in the colorful rocky terrain of Dixie National Forest. Nearby, head to Losee Canyon to hike Arches Trail. The easy hike feels like you’ve stumbled upon a secret stash of arches and hoodoos as you trek without the crowds.
Sitting at over 10,000 feet, Cedar Breaks National Monument is a blend of Bryce and Zion landscapes. The highlight is a half mile deep geologic amphitheater. The scenic drive alone is worth it. Cedar City to Brian Head is also a phenomenal spot for fall colors from mid-September through October. You can also ski, snowshoe and snowmobile Cedar Breaks in winter.
Zion: Wildlife and Secret Spots
If you’re a first-timer to Zion National Park, take your turn in Zion Canyon then explore the rest of the park. Enter Zion from the east side to enjoy a quieter and cooler way to ease into Zion’s grandeur. Keep your eyes peeled as its prime territory for spotting bighorn sheep and other wildlife. Just east of the tunnel on Zion-Mount Carmel Highway is Canyon Overlook Trail, one of my favorite hikes in the park. Because the parking area is small, it is best to do this hike early morning. You might spot bighorn sheep as you hike slick rock through the piñon forest to a stunning canyon view with mega wow factor.
For a crowd-free Zion experience, take a scenic drive up Kolob Terrace. There are ample opportunities for out-and-back hikes where you’ll likely only encounter multi-day backpackers. Venture to the park’s northwest corner to hike the 5-mile Taylor Creek Trail in Kolob Canyons, where you cross the creek many times, see a homestead and a beautiful double arch alcove.
Stay in Springdale for easy park access. Get a latte and breakfast burrito at Deep Creek Coffee Company. Go hungry to Oscar’s Café to devour their enchiladas or a burger. For more dining and lodging options, stay in Hurricane or St. George.
Don’t Skip These State Parks
Often overshadowed by Zion, Snow Canyon State Park is a stunner with lava flows and Navajo sandstone. Don’t miss the Petrified Dunes or Pioneer Names. From the north entrance do a ten-minute drive to indulge at Veyo Pies and Bakery. Relax on the beach or cliff jump at Sand Hollow State Park, where you can cool off in an oasis surrounded by red rock. If you have a need for speed, ride the dunes of Sand Mountain for an epic off-highway vehicle experience. Go for a paddle adventure or fish at Quail Creek State Park to enjoy some of the warmest waters in Utah. All three state parks are near St. George. Stay at Red Mountain Resort for a wellness retreat or Sand Hollow Resort, a bucket list golf destination.
Utah’s Mighty Five are phenomenal on their own or visited together on a scenic road trip. The real magic happens when you take your time, explore lesser-traveled trails and linger in the small towns. From waterfall hikes to ancient rock art and from pies in the desert to otherworldly landscapes sans crowds, these hidden gems will make your visit unforgettable.
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