Queensland is stitched together by warm hospitality and impressive scenery. Whether you fancy an urban adventure, the remoteness of a trail deep in a rainforest or the colorful coral of an underwater exploration, there is plenty to do. Here's my adventure through Brisbane, Daintree Rainforest and Cairns, giving you a front-row seat to this Australian state’s incredible diversity, from a riverfront city to the planet’s largest coral reef system.
First Stop: Brisbane for Riverfront Welcome
Queensland’s capital is a walkable city with an unexpected coffee and culinary scene. I landed shortly after sunrise in Australia (my sixth continent and 62nd country), and checked into Hotel X Brisbane Fortitude Valley, an IHG property in a fantastic location near bustling James Street, where you can take advantage of your AAA discount.
My number one rule on the first day of traveling internationally is to stay awake until 8 p.m., so I headed to Andonis Cafe for smashed avocado toast and a latte. It was my first stop to sip my way through Australia’s phenomenal coffee culture. From there, I wandered along the Brisbane River and hopped aboard the CityCat, Brisbane’s beloved ferry system, to float past the downtown skyline.
I departed the CityCat at Queen Street Mall, a lively pedestrian zone blending global brands with local character. I love a great hat and couldn’t pass up the chance to get Australia’s version of America’s famous Stetson. Since it was summer, I selected the Nomad straw hat from Akubra to wear during my Australian adventures. Needing another caffeine jolt, I stopped in Cafe Pacino as a summer shower passed over the city.
Later in the afternoon, I ventured over to Felons Brewing Company. With a riverfront seat, I watched boats pass by while noshing on oysters and sweet potato fries. From there, I walked over to James Street and popped into Messina for a sweet treat of gelato before calling it a night just after 8 p.m. One day isn’t nearly enough to explore Brisbane, but it is a great intro to Australia.
Sleep in the Rainforest at Silky Oaks Lodge
The next morning, I caught a flight to Cairns (pronounced Cans) and headed to Silky Oaks Lodge, about an hour and a half from the Cairns Airport. Close to Daintree National Park and tucked along the Mossman River in Kuku Yalanji country, Silky Oaks Lodge blends quietly into its rainforest surroundings. Treehouse-style accommodations feel intentionally minimal, drawing attention outward with outdoor soaking tubs and hammocks on private balconies. This is a place that makes it gloriously easy to unplug. The main lodge reflects a passionate sense of culture with local Aboriginal artwork throughout, and cuisine inspired by the region. The “Jungle Perch” quickly became my favorite spot. The treehouse nook is where they do happy hour daily. I also found the calming place perfect for a post-breakfast coffee. Dinner at the open-air Treehouse Restaurant is delightful, serving produce from the on-site garden, local seafood and Australian wine that pair beautifully with the wonderful view of the river. There’s adventure in the cuisine, and extensive exploration on the property. While enjoying a relaxing afternoon at Silky Oaks Lodge, I ventured down to one of their private swimming holes on the river. I delighted in getting it to myself as I swam and listened to the cascading falls.
Spend a Day Floating the Mossman and Exploring the World’s Oldest Rainforest
If the Daintree Rainforest has a heartbeat, it’s the Mossman River. The best way to experience Mossman Gorge is a day-long guided tour with Back Country Bliss Adventures, floating down the Mossman River and hiking in Daintree National Park. After gearing up, we walked to the river for a morning adventure involving floating, walking, and learning about the rainforest. This isn’t about adrenaline. Let the river carry you as you drift by gazing at the rainforest canopy. At the start of the wet season, when I visited in mid-December, the river is low and clear, revealing a dynamic riverbed shaped by cyclones and the torrential rains of the wet season. Nothing is static here. It is ever-changing. When the river is running higher, the rapids have a lot more vigor. Alternating walking and floating allows you to feel fully immersed in the rainforest, especially as a guide points out different plants and birds along the way. While faster rapids would be fun, I thoroughly enjoyed the gentle float, soaking in the river as the rainforest’s lifeline and narrator.
After drying off and having lunch at the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre, the tour shifts from physical to spiritual with a traditional Kuku Yalanji smoking ceremony. The Eastern Kuku Yalanji have lived in the rainforest for over 50,000 years. Led by an indigenous guide, you hear stories of the Kuku Yalanji culture and traditions, including bush foods and medicine, along with an ochre paint-making demonstration. As the guide chants, each person walks into the smoke, spins around once, letting the smoke curl around in a ceremony meant to cleanse negativity and prepare everyone to enter the rainforest with respect. This is not a reenactment for tourists. It is a living tradition offered with intention. When the ceremony ends, the rainforest no longer feels like just a place to visit; it feels like something you’re invited to experience.
I walked with awe as we entered Daintree National Park, home to the oldest rainforest on earth. The ancient tropical rainforest is more than 180 million years old. All seven of the world’s oldest surviving fern species still grow here, and 12 of the world’s first 19 flowering plants are still here.
After crossing a suspension bridge, we traded the easy paved path for stone steps and a rocky trail leading deeper into the forest. Every step comes with a lesson as our guide shared his knowledge of the plants, herbs and animals in the rainforest, like the gympie-gympie with innocent heart-shaped leaves and notoriously painful sting. Trees struggle for air, not water here, which is why massive buttress roots spread outward, creating air pockets for seasonal flooding. Those same roots can also be tapped like drums and were once used for communication across the rainforest. Strangler figs envelop centuries-old mahogany trees in silent, decades-long takeovers and massive basket ferns cling to branches high in the rainforest canopy. Spotting an elusive Boyd’s Forest Dragon was a highlight, along with standing inside a hollow tree estimated to be more than 1,500 years old. I took some moments along the trail to walk in silence and simply listen to the crescendos and fades of cicadas, birds calling, water rushing around boulders and the sound of my own footsteps. At the end of our hike, we stopped at what felt like a secret swimming hole. Slipping into the water was a natural cold plunge and refreshing swim after a hike through the rainforest.
I returned to Silky Oaks Lodge and melted into a Forest Grounding Massage in the Healing Waters Spa. Deeply relaxed, I savored a few moments in the chill room overlooking a beautiful section of the Mossman River, soaking in the ancient indigenous belief that the river is a renewing and life-giving force, before heading to the Treehouse Restaurant for another nourishing meal with every dish a culinary work of art.
Discover the Seaside Sophistication of Cairns
From the wild wonders of the rainforest, I headed to Cairns for a 2-night stay at Crystalbrook Bailey. Best known as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, Cairns was originally a shanty town for eager miners hoping to strike it rich in Queensland goldfields in the second half of the 1800s and as a port for sugarcane plantations. Today, Cairns blends tropical ease with a polished, creative edge. It’s walkable, waterfront-focused and deeply connected to the surrounding rainforest and reef.
I checked into a corner room with an expansive view of the city and mountains at Crystalbrook Bailey. I delighted in the artsy vibes of this sustainability-focused hotel. With bold color palettes, large-scale murals, sculptural lighting, and rotating artworks celebrating Tropical North Queensland, the Crystalbrook Bailey feels more like a contemporary gallery than a tourist-town hotel.
With early afternoon temperatures hovering around 90°F (32-33°C), I headed indoors at Cairns Koalas and Creatures to learn more about some of Queensland’s diverse wildlife. The highlight was holding a 4-year-old koala named Vera for just a few seconds. Following strict protocols, the brief encounter is carefully managed and undeniably special. From there, I explored the seaside city’s artsy side with a visit to Cairns Art Gallery, a free and worthwhile stop housed in a restored 1936 public building. Rotating exhibits spotlight indigenous and contemporary artists from across Tropical North Queensland and beyond. Feeling peckish? A poolside happy hour at Pachamama on the third floor of Crystalbrook Bailey provided a needed retreat from the bustling streets below.
Dining on the waterfront is a must, especially if you can snag a small bistro table for al fresco dining. Enjoy an overflowing seafood tower and a light sea breeze — a classic Cairns sunset experience at Dundee’s on the Waterfront. A stroll through the Cairns Night Market provides a lively post-dinner shopping excursion to wrap up a fun day.
Explore the Great Barrier Reef Like a Marine Biologist
A bucket list adventure for many, including me, is not just seeing the Great Barrier Reef from the air, but experiencing it on a snorkel or dive. Stretching 1,429 miles, it is the largest coral reef system on earth and one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on the planet. It’s home to more than 1,600 species of fish, six of the world’s seven sea turtle species, and 400 types of coral. Less than one percent of the world’s oceans has coral reefs, and the Great Barrier Reef is the crown jewel. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
Less than six percent of the reef is open to tourism and daily reef levies from each ticket fund conservation, research and monitoring, making it one of the best-managed marine parks in the world. As a travel journalist and meteorologist, I scrutinized tour options and decided on Passions of Paradise. A family-owned company for more than 30 years, it is both Eco Certified and Climate Action Certified, actively supporting reef restoration programs, citizen scientist initiatives, and hands-on management efforts. While a snorkel or dive experience is wonderful, the Eco Discovery Snorkel Tour offers the chance to be a marine biologist for a day. On the two-hour boat ride out to the reef, marine biologist Le’a Dawes, originally from the United States, shared all sorts of intriguing information to prep for our two snorkels. While climate change has affected the reef along with cyclones (tropical systems in the southern hemisphere), Le’a shared that the biggest threat right now is outbreaks of crown-of-thorns starfish.
At Hastings Reef, a pristine outer reef site, snorkeling unfolds as a series of discoveries. We spotted everything from sea cucumbers to colorful parrotfish. After each sighting, Le’a shared why each is important to the health of the Great Barrier Reef. Before getting back on the boat for lunch, we tallied how many different creatures we spotted, including a jellyfish Le’a had not seen that far out before. Luckily, I had my camera rolling, and it became part of our report.
At Split Bommie, our second snorkel site, we had two significant sightings. First, we spotted a crown-of-thorns starfish, which Le’a recorded the exact location for another team to remove. We didn’t get lucky to spot a shark, but as we were swimming back to the boat, several people signaled a turtle sighting. Le’a and I quickly swam over and watched a green sea turtle glide effortlessly around the coral. It was a quiet, almost poetic ending to snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef.
Didn’t Want to Say Good-Bye to Queensland
When my 5-day adventure in Tropical North Queensland was ending, I didn’t want to leave this corner of Australia that invites you to travel with curiosity and care. If you have more time, head north to Cape Tribulation, where the rainforest meets the reef in one of the most dramatic convergences on earth. Head inland to experience even more incredible landscapes like the Atherton Tablelands for waterfall hikes, crater lakes, and cooler mountain air. Both of those are on my next trip to Queensland, where the natural world itself is the star from rainforest to reef.